PULAU UBIN
AND PULAU UBIN LIVES:
THE DOCUMENTATION OF WOODEN VERNACULAR HOUSES AND SETTLEMENT HISTORIES
Located off the northeastern coast of Singapore, Pulau Ubin is the second largest offshore island within the city-state’s territorial waters and is the last remaining one with a sizeable rural resident population. The vicissitudes of its cultural landscape reflect Singapore’s changing policies towards her offshore islands. From the late 19th century to the 1970s Pulau Ubin, like a number of Singapore’s other offshore islands, was home to thriving communities to whom the state extended the provision of social services and physical infrastructure. At its peak, the island hosted a resident population of over 2,000 people. However, the last two decades of the 20th century witnessed a period of evictions, the uprooting of entire communities, and the withdrawal of various amenities. Today, with a resident population of less than 40, the island is promoted as an eco-tourism destination with an emphasis on maintaining its “rustic” character, and is placed under the management of a board in charge of Singapore’s parks and forests, National Parks Board (NParks). Originally, the island’s cultural and settlement histories, its remaining residents and their needs, as well as the present condition of their historical wooden vernacular dwellings received little attention. its remaining residents, their dwellings and their present condition and needs received little attention. However more recently, these have come under the ambit of more wide-ranging efforts to produce Pulau Ubin as a rustic destination.
This installation explores the current possibilities presented by the change in policy. The proposed restoration of four wooden Malay houses on Pulau Ubin presents a new frontier in architectural and landscape conservation in Singapore, reflecting NParks’ widened scope in its management of Pulau Ubin. The recent change in status for Pulau Ubin’s rural landscape from an ambiguous position to its recognition as valuable resource, meanwhile, translates into the inclusion of living social and cultural landscapes and vernacular architectural structures as integral to the value of nature conservation management.
Houses on Pulau Ubin have functioned as gathering spaces and played active roles for interaction and dialogue across diverse sections of society through events held in connection with Pulau Ubin’s special character as Singapore’s offshore island. This installation showcases some of these Malay houses as firstly, objects of interest in themselves, and secondly as sites of the exchange of knowledge and community interaction through a number of activities hosted by the houses, namely as places of inter-generational learning and of engagement with cultural knowledge of nature and plants for cooking.
Through the documentation of four Malay houses in Kampong Sungei Durian and Kampong Surau in eastern Pulau Ubin in particular, based on original fieldwork, the heritage of the Malay community, a minority group in Singapore whose story on Pulau Ubin have hitherto not been given sufficient attention, is also foregrounded. This documentation also records the stories of the Malay residents, the histories and characteristics their houses and settlements, and the frameworks for their conservation, restoration, and documentation.
Tracing the History of Pulau Ubin
16th - 17th Century
Pulau Ubin came under the influence of the Johor-Riaus Empire and the earliest inhabitants were the Orang Laut and indigenous Malay with Bugis and Javanese origins[1]
1820s
1840s
4 August 1825:
John Crawfurd made an expedition to take formal possession of Pulau Ubin. Crawfurd’s party hoisted the British flag and fired a 21-gun salute. The island’s occupants were a few woodcutters living in huts[2]
1840s:
More Chinese and Malays settled in Pulau Ubin[3]
Mid 1840s:
Chinese have completely cleared the primary vegetation[4] and started to quarry granite[5]
1880s
Endut bin Senin initiated a migration project to settle inhabitants from Kallang River to Pulau Ubin. About 50 families settled around the South-eastern coast of the island at Kg Melayu, Kg Sungei Durian and Kg Surau[8]
1850s
1856:
Government quarries were established and about 25 convicts were deployed[6] to quarry granite for the construction of Horsburgh Lighthouse on Pedra Branca (1851), Raffles Lighthouse (1855), the Causeway (1923), Pearl's Hill Reservoir (1903), Fort Canning (1858), Fort Canning Reservoir (1926), Fort Fullerton Expansion and Singapore Harbour (1913)[7]
1930s
1930s - 1940s:
Provision shops were established to serve the needs of the 5,000 to 6,000 residents and the foreign workers from the quarry. The shops would sell fresh goods as well as animal feed to the farmers[13]
​​Besides the Government quarries, it was reported that there were 10 other quarries operated by 9 different companies[9]
House No.1 built[10]
​
The Chinese community consisted of Hokkien, Teochew, Hakka, Cantonese and Hainanese. Many of the Hokkien people had the surname ‘Ong’[11]
1930s-1940s
Population Size: 5000-6000[12]
1940s
1950s
Five quarries had been abandoned[18]
1952:
Bin Kiang School was established[19]
​
1956:
Kampung Melayu Malay School established[20]
1957:
Maternity and Child Health Clinic established[21]
1942:
40 Indians, a few worked at the Health Department[14]
1942 - 1943:
WWII, rubber trees destroyed[15]
The main jetty was first built by the Japanese[16]
1950
Population Size: 1456[17]
1958 Master Plan
Mineral Workings
Fisheries Reserves
Rural
1960s
Granite mining activities ceased[23]
1961:
Pulau Ubin Community Centre established[24]
​
1967:
Establishment of OBS Campsite[25]
1969:
Old wayang stage and a colourful Chinese temple built[27]
1950s-1970s
Population Size: 2000[22]
1968
Population Size: 2000[26]
1970s
1970
Population Size: 2028[28]
1977 Master Plan
Rural
Unplanned
Granite quarries started to close down[29]
1970:
Cultivation of orchids. One of the orchid farms was relocated from Mandai. Two of the farms survived for a few years, and then ceased production because the owners did not break even[30]
Late 1970s:
Kampung Melayu Malay School closed[31]
​
1976 - 1977:
There were a drugstore, a ferry-pontoon workshop, a bookstore and a dressmaking shop[32]
1980s
1980s:
Commercial crop cultivation and rubber tapping ceased[34]
​
1985:
Bin Kiang School closed[35]
1987:
Maternity and Child Health Clinic closed[37]
Conversion of swamps into prawn ponds[38]
​
1987:
Acquisition of land by government[39]
NPCC Campsite at Kg Bahru was declared open[40]
1989:
Land Office inspections of unauthorised structures[41]
1980
Population Size: 1242[33]
1980 Master Plan
Rural
Unplanned
1985 Master Plan
Open Space
Sports and Recreation
Agriculture
Reserve Site
1987
Population Size: 1000[36]
1990s
1991 Concept Plan
“Pulau Tekong and Pulau Ubin will be safeguarded for leisure and recreation purposes for as long as possible. However if the population exceeds four million, they will be developed by Year X – linked”
1995
Population Size: 400[45]
1997 Planning Report
Pulau Ubin will remain as a venue for sports and recreational activities, with an additional 2694 ha reclaimed from there and at Pulau Tekong
1999
Population Size: 250[53]
1990s:
Quarries ceased operation[42]
19 July 1990:
“Interim use for Pulau Ubin” Ubin will be kept “as a contingency land reserve for urban development”[43]
​
1991:
Land reclamation plans of Pulau Ubin and Pulau Tekong announced. Both islands will grow from a total of 2,800 hectares to 5,000 hectares eventually, allowing them to hold 400,000 people[44]
​
1993:
Acquisition of land (about a quarter of Ubin) by government for development. The area to be procured included the site of Kampung Surau and Kampung Melayu[46].
HDB anounced Pulau Ubin and Pulau Tekong reclamation plans to start by the end of 1995, with the initial phases to cost an estimated $1.4 billion. The two islands will be enlarged by a total of about 2,480 ha and will be linked to the mainland by either a tunnel or bridge. The initial phases will see about 657 ha being reclaimed[47]
​
1996:
PRD announced 2 sites for large scale resorts with a 15-year lease for sale by tender as part of the plans to make Pulau Ubin “an island getaway” and a “rural and rustic outdoor retreat for Singaporeans”[48]
​
1997:
Eviction of Kg Surau and Kg Melayu settlement[49]
Opening of Outward Bound School’s new enlarged facility[50]
​
1998:
Plot at the South-Western part of the island was awarded to Alliance Technology and Development Ltd and Fort Canning Country Club Investment Ltd to build the Ubin Lagoon Resort[51].
The policy statements of National Parks Board (1998) describes Pulau Ubin as set to become a nature park of “rustic charm” comprising more than 512 ha. Three activity areas will be established with trails and amenities such as toilets and shelters installed or upgraded. “The vegetation will be preserved” and the island will be “retained mostly in its natural setting”[52]
​
1999:
“Two resort developments in Pulau Ubin that were originally supposed to be ready last year have yet to open”. “One is still under construction and the other is still looking for a partner and has yet to start work.”[54]
The last operational quarry on the island closed[55]
2000s
2000:
Bin Kiang School demolished[57]
2001:
URA said reclamation work was to start on Chek Jawa. MINDEF was planning to use the mud-flat on the island’s eastern tip for its “training needs”[59]
​
2002:
First Ubin Day held[60]
​
2003:
House No. 1 awarded conservation status[61]
Pulau Ubin Community Centre closed[62]
Second Ubin Day held[63]
​
1 September 2004:
AVA issued a directive under the Animal and Birds Act to prohibit Pulau Ubin residents from keeping more than 10 poultry per household[64]
​
3 June 2005:
AVA announced a ban on the keeping of live poultry on Pulau Ubin, to take effect in two weeks, from 17 June. The Government offered resettlement for affected farmers[65]
​
April 2007:
Kekek Quarry will be reopened for limited quarrying[67]
2000
Population Size: 250[56]
2001
Population Size: 139[58]
2001 Concept Plan
“aims to keep these and other areas rustic for as long as possible.”
2002 Parks & Waterbodies Plan and Identity Plan
Designated as part of ‘Rustic Coast’ cluster
2003 Master Plan
Open Space
Reserve Site
Sports and Recreation
Special Use
Agriculture
2007
Population Size: 60[66]
2008 Master Plan
Open Space
Sports and Recreation
Agriculture
Reserve Site
2010s
2012
Population Size: 38[68]
2014 Master Plan
Open Space
Sports and Recreation
Agriculture
Reserve Site
2013:
EMA embarked on a micro grid test-bed using solar panels and biodiesel to generate electricity in a less pollutive and more environmentally sustainable manner for residents at the jetty area[69]
Closure of Celestial Resorts[70]
March 2013:
Eviction Notice via “Clearance Scheme”[71]
​
April 2013:
“No plans to evict Pulau Ubin residents but households will have to pay rent and obtain Temporary Occupation Licence (TOL)”[72]
July 2013:
“Pulau Ubin to remain a rustic getaway”[73]
​
2014:
Friends of Ubin Network (FUN) was formed, comprising youths, residents, volunteers, researchers and members from the heritage and nature communities[74]
​
November 2014:
Third Ubin Day held
30 November 2014:
Announcement of first phase of initiatives by the Government to better protect and restore Pulau Ubin’s nature and heritage spaces. Namely enhancing natural habitats and setting up a centre for field studies[75]
​
13 June 2015:
Ubin Day held in conjunction with Siglap Day[76]
​
2016:
NParks to be Central Managing Agency for Pulau Ubin[77]
Ubin Day 2016 extended to a five-week long celebration and became known as “Pesta Ubin”[78]
New opportunities for the public to experience kampung life on Pulau Ubin (Teck Seng’s Place, Ubin Fruit Orchard)[79]
​
2017:
Pesta Ubin 2017
Launch of a multi-year kampung house restoration effort[80] Archaeological Survey begins at World War II Site[81]
​
2018:
Pesta Ubin 2018
​
2019:
Pesta Ubin 2019
NParks to repair seven kampung houses and a coffee shop in Pulau Ubin. The project kicked off in October, addressing issues such as leaking roofs, damaged floorboards and broken windows[82]
​
August 2019:
National Parks Board's Community Liaison Team set up to address the needs of the local residents[83]
​
2020:
20 new animal species found on Pulau Ubin, including a spider not recorded elsewhere in the world[84]
Decrease in visitors to Pulau Ubin since Covid-19 outbreak[85]
​
January 2020:
Outward Bound Singapore camps on Pulau Ubin used as government quarantine facility for Covid-19[86]
​
April 2020:
Provision of free boat rides so that residents can continue to buy groceries on the mainland[87]
​
June 2020:
Singapore enters Phase 2 of Circuit Breaker measures. Bumboat rides are increased from $3 to $4 per pax due to safe distancing measures, reopening bicycle kiosks and eateries[88]
​
Late 2020:
Increase in visitors flocking to Pulau Ubin for kampung vibes and nature trails in light of restrictions to international travel due to Covid-19[89]
2019 Master Plan
Open Space
Sports and Recreation
Agriculture
Reserve Site
Utility
References
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2. Vernon Cornelius-Takahama, "Pulau Ubin," Infopedia, February 12, 1999, accessed October 19, 2018, http://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/infopedia/articles/SIP_219_2004-12-13.html. Charles Burton Buckley, An Anecdotal History of Old times in Singapore 1819-1867 (Singapore: Oxford University Press, 1984).
3. Betty L Khoo-Kingsley, “The Spirited Pioneers,” Nature Watch, (July-September 1995), 9.
4. James Richardson Logan, The rocks of Pulo Ubin (Singapore, 1846), 4.
5. National Heritage Board, "Pulau Ubin."
6. “Convict Establishment at Pulo Ubin”, The Straits Times, September 16,1856.
7. National Heritage Board, "Pulau Ubin."
8. Ibid.
9. Ministry of National Development, National Parks Board, "MEDIA FACTSHEET A: About Pulau Ubin," news release, November 24, 2014, MEDIA FACTSHEET A: About Pulau Ubin, accessed October 19, 2018, https://www.nparks.gov.sg/-/media/nparks-real-content/news/2014/12/factsheeta_aboutpulauubin.pdf.
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11. Chye Joo Lim, “Chinese Dialect Groups,” interview by Beng Luan Tan, Oral History Centre, National Archives of Singapore, November 06, 1987, audio, 30:59, http://www.nas.gov.sg/archivesonline/oral_history_interviews/record-details/0845d69f-115e-11e3-83d5-0050568939ad.
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13. Tan, Tan, Traditional Provision Shops, 32 - 35.
14. Shanmugasivanathan, “Japanese Occupation of Singapore,” interview by Beng Luan Tan, Oral History Centre, National Archives of Singapore, April 07, 1983, audio, 27:49, http://www.nas.gov.sg/archivesonline/oral_history_interviews/record- details/e56501ab-115d-11e3-83d5-0050568939ad
15. Vernon Cornelius-Takahama, "Pulau Ubin."
16. Ibid.
17. “WELFARE STUDY ON PULAU UBIN”, The Straits Times, August 03, 1950.
18. National Heritage Board, "Pulau Ubin."
19. Ibid.
20. Ibid.
21. Ibid.
22. National Parks Board, "MEDIA FACTSHEET A: About Pulau Ubin."
23. Ibid.
24. National Heritage Board, "Pulau Ubin."
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26. “More land for farming? Singapore will turn to big islands”, The Straits Times, May 17, 1968.
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30. Waller, Landscape Planning in Singapore, 165 - 171.
31. National Heritage Board, "Pulau Ubin."
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33. Waller, Landscape Planning in Singapore, 157 - 184.
34. National Heritage Board, "Pulau Ubin." National Heritage Board, "Kampong Life."
35. National Heritage Board, "Pulau Ubin."
36. National Parks Board, "MEDIA FACTSHEET A: About Pulau Ubin."
37. National Heritage Board, "Pulau Ubin."
38. “Pulau Ubin swamps may be turned into prawn ponds.”, The Straits Times, October 15, 1987.
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42. Tan, Tan, Traditional Provision Shops, 32 - 35.
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45. National Parks Board, "MEDIA FACTSHEET A: About Pulau Ubin."
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49. Information from field studies.
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62. National Heritage Board, "Pulau Ubin."
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67. National Heritage Board, "Pulau Ubin."
68. National Heritage Board, "Kampong Life."
69. Ibid.
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71. “Letter informs Ubin residents of possible resettlement”, The Straits Times, April 12, 2013.
72. Chian Hui Poon and Zengkun Feng, “Ubin residents’ rent will start from $6 to $35”, The Straits Times, April 18, 2013.
73. Poon, “Pulau Ubin to remain a rustic getaway: Maliki”.
74. Ministry of National Development, National Parks Board, "Community Participates in Efforts to Enhance Pulau Ubin's Natural Heritage as Part of the International Day for Biological Diversity Celebrations on Island," news release, May 22, 2016, National Archives of Singapore, accessed October 20, 2018, http://www.nas.gov.sg/archivesonline/speeches/record-details/06a8e1f8-03f7-11e7-afb1-0050568939ad.
75. Siau, "Govt Unveils Plans to Better Protect Pulau Ubin."
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77. Ministry of National Development, National Parks Board, "NParks to Be Central Managing Agency for Pulau Ubin," news release, June 04, 2016, National Archives of Singapore, accessed October 20, 2018, http://www.nas.gov.sg/archivesonline/speeches/record-details/e40ebc77-03f6-11e7-afb1-0050568939ad.
78. Lee, "Speech by 2M Desmond Lee at Ubin Day".
79. Ministry of National Development, National Parks Board, "New Opportunities for the Public to Experience Kampung Life on Pulau Ubin," news release, December 03, 2016, National Archives of Singapore, accessed October 20, 2018, http://www.nas.gov.sg/archivesonline/speeches/record-details/64d10e72-0fc0-11e7-afb1-0050568939ad.
80. Ministry of National Development, National Parks Board, "New Opportunities for the Community to Partner NParks in Revitalising Pulau Ubin."
81. Ministry of National Development, National Parks Board, "In-depth Archaeological Survey Begins on Pulau Ubin at World War II Site," news release, December 22, 2017, National Archives of Singapore, accessed October 20, 2018, http://www.nas.gov.sg/archivesonline/speeches/record-details/daebc6c0-fab4-11e7-bafc-001a4a5ba61b.
82. Melody Zaccheus, “NParks steps in to spruce up Ubin's charm”, The Sunday Times, November 24, 2019.
83. Renee Poh, "Help for Pulau Ubin residents during Covid-19 circuit breaker," The Straits Times, May 29, 2020, accessed May 19, 2021, https://www.straitstimes.com/multimedia/help-for-pulau-ubin-residents-during-covid-19-circuit-breaker.
84. Navene Elangovan, "Survey finds 20 new animal species on Pulau Ubin, including a spider not recorded elsewhere in the world," TODAY, September 26, 2020, accessed May 19, 2021, https://www.todayonline.com/singapore/survey-finds-20-animal-species-pulau-ubin-including-spider-never-recorded-anywhere-world.
85. Poh, "Help for Pulau Ubin residents during Covid-19 circuit breaker."
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87. Poh, "Help for Pulau Ubin residents during Covid-19 circuit breaker."
88. Sumita Thiagarajan, "One-way bumboat rides to Pulau Ubin now cost S$4 per pax due to safe distancing measures," Mothership, June 22, 2020, accessed May 19, 2021, https://mothership.sg/2020/06/visit-pulau-ubin-phase-2/.
89. Clara Chong, "Unwinding in Ubin: Marooned in Singapore, locals flock to island for kampung vibes and nature trails," The Straits Times, December 13, 2020, accessed May 19, 2021, https://www.straitstimes.com/singapore/unwinding-in-ubin-marooned-in-singapore-locals-flock-to-island-for-kampung-vibes-and.